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It’s an old-style windjammer with modern rooms

Call it the most unusual new cruise vessel of the decade — if not longer. Carrying just 136 passengers, Sea Cloud Spirit is a full-rigged, three-masted sailing ship of the sort that hasn’t been common on the world’s oceans for more than a century. Still, it’s no relic of the golden age of sail. While it’s modeled on classic sailing ships of old, it was built with all of the modern comforts that you would expect on a new cruise vessel, including elegant and amenity-filled cabins.

Aimed at an upscale traveler, Sea Cloud Spirit’s accommodations are notably roomy for a sailing vessel, with most measuring more than 200 square feet and many boasting spacious balconies —a rarity for even the biggest passenger sailing ships.

All 25 cabins on the Panorama Deck (Deck 3), billed as junior suites and suites, have such balconies, allowing passengers to step out into the fresh ocean air during long sails between destinations. That’s roughly 36% of the 67 cabins on the vessel.

The remaining 42 cabins — most located one deck down on the Cabin Deck (Deck 2), with a few on the higher Lido Deck (Deck 4) — all have windows to the outside. In an unusual-for-a-cruise-vessel twist, the windows of the Lido Deck cabins can be opened for a breeze.

All the cabins are well appointed with such modern amenities as televisions with on-demand movies available at no extra charge, miniature refrigerators stocked with soda, personal safes and a welcome bottle of Champagne. On the downside, storage space is somewhat limited, with relatively tight built-in closets with oddly small slide-out drawers.

All feature decor that draws its inspiration from the 1930s design of Sea Cloud Cruises’ original vessel Sea Cloud — once the private yacht for Postum Cereals heiress Marjorie Merriweather Post (and, at one time, the largest private yacht in the world). Think classical motifs, white-on-white decorative wall paneling and shiplap ceilings, and bathrooms with lots of marble, brass and gold. (In junior suites, the type of cabin I had, the bathrooms boast deep whirlpool bathtubs and Villeroy & Boch fittings.)

The dining is upscale (if limited)

Hard and tasteless sea biscuits, salted meats and pickled vegetables might have been the staples of sailing ships of old, but that’s definitely not the case on Sea Cloud Spirit. The ship offers a fine dining experience in its main eatery, the Restaurant, that mixes elegantly plated classic continental cuisine such as beef Rossini with locally inspired dishes such as a pan-seared fillet of grouper floating on a Caribbean-style salsa.

Big enough to serve all 136 passengers on the ship at once, the Restaurant has a classic feel to match its continental cuisine. It sports large arched windows that bathe the room in light, crisp white tablecloths, German-made china embossed with a gold line drawing of the ship, and paintings of sailing ships on its walls.

Located at the back of the vessel on the Panorama Deck, the Restaurant is, alas, one of few dining options on Sea Cloud Spirit, and it offers a limited menu at dinnertime. Each night, the menu features just a single starter, a single soup, a choice of three main courses and a single dessert (that can be substituted with an international cheese plate). Plus, sorbet is always served in between the soup and main courses.

An alternative option on some nights is a more casual dinner at the open-air “bistro” — a covered seating area with teak furniture and 270-degree views at the back of the ship. Its menu also is limited to just a few choices, and they typically overlap with what is offered at the Restaurant one deck below.

The bistro space, which is backed by a bar, also serves as the ship’s main outdoor lounge space during the day and morphs into a drinking spot at night (complete with a DJ spinning tunes). On some nights, there’s even dancing.

The single option for lunch typically is a buffet served at the outdoor bistro, with breakfast served as a buffet in the Restaurant. On some nights, dinner is also a buffet served at the outdoor bistro, with no meal served in the Restaurant.

What you won’t find on Sea Cloud Spirit is the sort of casual decktop grill that you find on some ships where you can grab a quick burger in between lounges on the Lido Deck. And there’s no room service offered on board for those who want to swap one of the very-drawn-out meals in the main restaurant for an early night to bed.

This is, no doubt, partly due to the small size of the vessel and resulting limits on the number of kitchen and wait staff members that it can carry. Even with the limited menus and dining options, the dining staff often appears stretched too thin.

Still, what the kitchen is able to accomplish with its limited resources is impressive. Dinner buffets at the bistro often feature chefs grilling fresh local fish either bought the same day from local fishers or caught off the back of the vessel while it is underway (something I’ve never seen done on any other vessel in nearly 30 years of writing about cruising). Filet mignon, lobster and other high-end fare cooked in front of passengers on deck is also common.

Sea Cloud has also begun hosting well-known U.S. chefs on some sailings to lead cooking demonstrations and lectures during the day and create special dishes for dinners at night. On my sailing, renowned South Florida chef Cindy Hutson and partner Delius Shirley, who have had restaurants in Florida and Jamaica, were on board. Sea Cloud recently announced that chef Michael Collantes of Winter Park, Florida’s Michelin-starred Soseki would be sailing on a voyage in October.

It’s mostly all-inclusive

Sea Cloud Spirit’s itineraries aren’t inexpensive. Ten-night Costa Rica and Panama voyages scheduled for 2025, similar to the one I experienced, start at $9,530 per person — or nearly $1,000 per person, per day. Top cabins on the vessel for such voyages cost as much as $23,090 per person.

But as is typical for cruise lines at the high end, Sea Cloud Cruises includes a lot in its base price. In addition to a room and all meals, the fares wrap in the cost of gratuities, a complimentary minibar in cabins stocked with sodas, and fine wines and other alcoholic drinks available from the ship’s eateries and bar around the clock. These costs can really drive up the total price of a cruise vacation on many other lines.

In addition, all passengers get 1 gigabyte of speedy Starlink Internet access for free on every voyage. (If that isn’t enough to last your entire sailing, you can buy more at a rate of 20 euros for 5 gigabytes or 35 euros for 10 gigabytes.) Plus, those staying in higher-level cabins get free laundry service throughout their cruise, a notable perk.

Another free perk on the ship is access to its small spa’s thermal area— an extra charge on many ships. It’s home to a Finnish sauna, steam room, foot bath, showers and a relaxation room.

Some destination activities are also included in the fare. On my sailing, for instance, guided snorkeling outings with a naturalist off the beach during stops at Panama’s Coiba National Park and Pearl Islands were available at no extra charge. So was a visit with the indigenous Kuna people of the San Blas Islands off the coast of Panama.

The handful of things that cost extra during a Sea Cloud Spirit sailing include extra-charge shore tours offered during visits to some destinations (on my sailing, there were extra-charge tours during three stops) and treatments in the ship’s small spa.

It’s magical — and romantic

Lovely rooms, lovely food, inclusive pricing — these are all things that you’ll find on just about any higher-end cruise ship. But what you won’t get on almost any other vessel is the feeling of sheer awe that you get spending a day under sail on Sea Cloud Spirit.

It is, quite simply, something magical — and romantic — to be propelled through the ocean on a vessel the size of Sea Cloud Spirit by nothing more than the power of the wind.

It harks back to a bygone era before the arrival of modern motor vessels, when crossing the world’s oceans was as adventurous as it was arduous.

It’s an experience that’s all about the feeling of the wind in your hair, the lean of the vessel (known as the heel) as it’s pushed by the wind and the sway from the waves, which is smoother than what you get on a motor ship.

It’s about looking up at the massive sails swollen with the wind from the vantage point of a lounge chair and thinking about how far humans have come in just a few centuries — for better or worse.

It’s about thinking about our collective history and the personal tales of our family histories.

Walking around Sea Cloud Spirit’s graciously curved top deck, with its seemingly endless arrays of coiled ropes and winches and other gear needed to operate a giant tall ship, I couldn’t help but think of my poor Scot-Irish ancestors casting off from Belfast and Londonderry to the Americas in the 1700s, setting off on sailing ship journeys that would take eight weeks in some cases.

Sea Cloud Spirit is enchanting for many reasons, including its sheer beauty. Narrow and sleek, as sailing ships always are, it’s a sight to behold from the water when all 28 of its sails are unfurled and trimmed for maximum speed — something passengers can experience firsthand during a “photo safari” off the ship in rubber Zodiac boats.

When the light catches the ship’s sails just right, it is pure majesty.

All that said, if you’re the sort of cruiser who doesn’t think a ship is complete if it’s not loaded with amusements, Sea Cloud Spirit is probably not the vessel for you. Other than the show of the sails being put up, it offers no onboard shows, just lectures by the ship’s staff and guest speakers about the places the ship is visiting and the ship itself. Its top deck doesn’t even have a pool.

In contrast to what you’ll find on many new cruise ships, the experience isn’t about being amused while carving your way across the sea. It’s about the simple thrill of traveling across the sea.

If you’re an American, you might be in the minority

Sea Cloud Cruises is a Germany-based company, with a big following there, and as a result, its sailings are often dominated by German-speaking passengers.

While the company markets internationally, and its onboard program is bilingual (the relatively rare number of announcements on board are made in both German and English, and most of the staff speaks both languages), certain sailings can have very few English speakers on board. On my sailing, only about a dozen of 104 passengers on board were English speakers, for instance.

In addition, you’ll find that pricing for extra-charge items on the ship, such as spa treatments, is in euros. The plugs on board the vessel are all European style (though you will find a couple of USB ports to charge your phones in every room).

Sea Cloud Cruises has been making a major effort in recent months to draw more travelers from the North American market, so expect to see this ratio of English speakers to German speakers grow. But, for now, a cruise on the vessel sometimes has the feel of a stay at the sort of smaller hotels in Germany that mostly cater to locals.

When passing someone in a hall, whether passenger or crew, you’re more likely to be greeted with a “guten morgen” or “guten tag” than a “good morning” or “good day” — at least until they figure out that you’re one of the few Americans on board.

Bottom line

Other authentic sailing ships offer multiday trips for vacationers — including the two other vessels in the Sea Cloud Cruises fleet (Sea Cloud and Sea Cloud II). But none are as big or awe-inspiring as the new Sea Cloud Spirit.

If it’s an authentic sailing ship experience you’re after, on a large vessel of the sort that once was common on the world’s oceans, a voyage on Sea Cloud Spirit will be hard to beat.

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